About this Yacht
45 ft 0 in
Engine / Fuel Type:
LOA: 45 ft 0 in
Beam: 12 ft 4 in
Maximum Draft: 7 ft 3 in
Fresh Water Tanks: (120 Gallons)
Fuel Tanks: (130 Gallons)
Number of single berths: 1
Number of double berths: 2
Number of heads: 2
BRAND NEW ENGINE, GEAR AND GENSET!!!
Engines: single Perkins M92, 4-cyliner, in line, naturally diesel
2. Gears: Borg Warner Velvet Drive 10-17-006 s/n: K1718 1.52:1 ratio
Genset: Mase Model: IS 7.6S
Xantrex Freedom Marine 30 Charger
Edson wheel, pedestal, cables, sheaves, quadrant/pedestal mounted shift/throttle levers, Bowden-type cables.
1. Rig: masthead sloop, single spreaders Masts: oval section, painted aluminum, keel stepped
2. Standing Rig: 1X19 stainless steel, 5/16" Running Rig: Dacron
3. Turnbuckles: open bodied, chromed bronze Toggles: stainless steel
4. Winches: (3) Barient #20, 2-speed, chromed bronze drums
(2) Barient #26, 2-speed, chromed bronze drums
SAIL MATERIAL MAKER YEAR CONDITION
mainsail Dacron unknown unknown not inspected
mainsail, battened Dacron Watts unknown not inspected
180% genoa Dacron Windward unknown not inspected
genoa #2 4800 Dacron North unknown not inspected
Stainless steel anchor platform with (2) rollers on bow
Single stainless steel anchor bracket with roller on stern
(4) Stainless steel fender holders on forward stanchion mount
50’ Marine shore power cord
Nilsson 12VDC anchor windlass, vertical, warping drum & gypsy, deck foot control
Painted aluminum radar mast w/dinghy boom, block & tackle
Standard Horizon Spectrum VHF transceiver w/DSC
Standard Horizon Ram Mic
Raymarine RL70C Pathfinder Plus
Raymarine RL760 Pathfinder Plus
Raymarine ST60 MULTI
Raymarine ST60 WIND
Raymarine ST6001+ autopilot
Xantrex Freedom Marine 30 (81-3011-12) power inverter
Xantrex Link 1000 remote panel
Guest Model 2433 galvanic isolator
Masthead whip antenna
Lifesling2 ORS, rail mounted
Trident LPG control panel
West Marine rescue throw line
Viking RescYou 6UKSL life raft, no expiration date sighted
Hammar H2OR hydrostatic release, expires 2012
Masthead Tricolor navigation light
Safety harness no name
(3) Safety harness’, new in bags
Jim Buoy safety harness
(2) Safety tethers w/clips
(2) West Marine 45’ jack lines
West Marine child safety tether
(3) Jack lines, in bag
Marine Air SCMCD 16k/2 reverse-cycle heat pump (new in box, not installed or secured)
Diesel hydronic heating system, incomplete installation, (no manufacture name or model sighted)
Panasonic inverter microwave oven
Oster toaster oven
Mast mounted TV antenna (manufacture no longer visible)
Varnished teak pedestal mounted table
5” Brass Bell Clock Co. ships clock
5” Brass barometer (no manufacture label)
Deck light prism
Magma stainless steel BBQ, LPG, rail mounted on stainless steel table
(2) Stainless steel pole holders
Aft deck wash fitting
(2) 3” 12VDC centrifugal blowers, 3”, in cockpit storage, not mounted or in service
Shurflo 12VDC deck wash pump, forward
12VDC aft deck wash pump
(2) 12VDC docking lights
(2) 12VDC spreader lights
12VDC deck light
(2) Painted cast aluminum dinghy davits
Spurs prop shaft line cutter
Single sideband radio ground plate
Stern pulpit outboard motor hanging bracket
Mase diesel generator, not installed
Hood Yacht Systems Sea Furl roller furler
Lazy jacks mainsail flaking system
Soft boom vang
Forespar 3”X 13’ 6” aluminum whisker pole
Single backstay w/isolators
Mast mounted folding climbing steps
Fireboy Model 35VH Halon 1301
- Radio: Standard Horizon Spectrum+ VHF transceiver
- Compass Ritchie "Constellation", pedestal mounted
- Fathometer: Raymarine ST60 MULTI
- Radar: Raymarine RL70C Pathfinder Plus
- GPS: Raymarine RL70C Pathfinder Plus
- Nav. Lights: international rules, 12VDC
From the Owner 1
Preface: Before we start itemizing: Assume everything in this boat was replaced or reconfigured, unless I mention otherwise.
My intension was to save the hull and custom build a boat my wife would be proud of. It was going to be our home for many years and it needed a complete overhaul and upgrade. This included all of todays amenities. I estimated it would take about 2 to 3 years to complete it. It has taken over 10 years and in excess of 20K manhours to get to this point. Also, it has cost us over $300K. We had an account with Port Supply (business arm of West Marine) to purchase parts at wholesale cost plus 5%. I provided 95% of the labor which is not part of the cost.
I started on the outside of the boat repairing about 80 leaks causing a lot of damage inside the boat. Eventually I just striped everything off the deck and put the boat in the boatyard and worked on it there. While the boat was in the yard, the following was done:
Need to complete/do:
The installation of the mast is now complete!
I wanted to have two anchors stored at the bow. The old design had one anchor roller and if anchored in a bad storm or when the ancho s stuck in the mud and using the boat to pull it free, I felt the flimsy attachment to the boat would fail.
I fiberglassed from the bow tip back to the anchor locker. This raised the deck to the level of the 3”to 4” fiberglass rail on the edge of the deck. This gave me more strength in the bow and a nice flat surface (without a wood spacer under the windless that I would have to maintain or replace) to mount (2) anchor rollers.
Custom Metal Fab then fabricated the new highly polished stainless steel bow sprit with (2) anchor rollers welded to it.
The anchor rollers had to be very large to support (2) 45lb anchors and to get the retrieval point far enough from the bow to prevent a swinging anchor from hitting the bow. After installing it, I felt it needed a brace on the overhang. The brace was then added to the new bow sprit.
The windless worked great but needed appearance improvement. Took it all apart, cleaned and examined it. Took all the external parts (except the base plate – could not get it off) and had them replated. Replaced the old foot switch. During my examination I disconnected the motor.
Need to do:
The old navigation lights were built into the bow hull. They failed and the previous owner wired and hung new ones to the bow railing. All the wiring was laying on the top of the deck and the old lights were left in place to fill the holes in the hull. I could not find the hull re-placement lights. While attending the Seattle Boat Show, I found a pair of docking/headlights. They where an exact fit for replacing the old navigation lights.
Need to do:
I installed the lights and ran new wiring to the cockpit control panel.
Removed the bow railing and had it repaired. Two of the welded joints needed to be rewelded. I had it modified to hide all the navigation lights wiring. Installed all new insulated wiring into the SS tubing and all the way back to the breakers. Polished the railing and installed it.
Pulled out the old anchor chain and replaced it with 300’ of ACCO Chain (made in the U.S.A.). I did not use the cheap tested and proven to early fail chain, made in china. Cleaned and painted the anchor chain locker. Rebuilt the drain system for the locker. Modified the locker to be able to pull the chain back to the galley in the bilge when underway, significantly reducing the weight at the bow.
Significate fiberglass repair was required for the anchor locker lid and put in a new drain system. Put in a raised floor to keep the locker contents dry.
Installed a wash down (raw water pump) pump to the bulkhead in the chain locker. Plumbing intake is located under the floor hatch between the dining area and the galley. There are (2) hose connection points. One point is in the bow anchor locker and the second one is AFT in the propane locker. If someone accidently turns on the pump, the water will come into these lockers and drain out.
Need to do:
The pump was wired to the galley. Need to install the switch to the front of the sink and attach the wires (#2
Replaced all of the aluminum cleats (except (2) on the mast) with large stainless steel yacht cleats. The old backup plates were made of plywood (rotted and delaminated), had large ¼ inch SS replacement plates made and installed. Installed rub Strakes and line chocks.
Took all of the stantions home to polish. Spent a month polishing before I gave up and scrapped them. They all had small pits in them that I could not polish out. Purchased all new stantions and installed. The new stantions are 2” taller then the old ones.
At this juncture, it’s important to note that I had to correct a problem with leaking and compression damage at every bolt throughout the deck. Tightening the bolts was used as the solution to leak problems, however this method only added to the problem.
To better explain what the problem was: A bolt would start to leak into the middle layer. As time past, the second layer around the bolt would rot. As more time went by, it would rot further from the bolt. Now that you have lost your core around the bolt and stopping leaks consist of tightening the bolt, the compression distorts the fiberglass layers.
I used West Systems Fiberglassing products in repairing/modifying the boat. I used a total of (24) gallons of epoxy. They publish a large booklet on How-to fix and modify fiberglass issues. I used it as my sole source of how-to and I followed the directions to the letter. Even today, I am told manufacturers do not use this technic because of the significant additional labor cost.
On the deck there are (3) layers. Fiberglass top layer, balsa or plywood middle (some manufacturers are now putting in a type of foam) and a fiberglass bottom layer to stop the rotting problem. On all the deck through holes (100’s of them), I did the following:
Step 1: On a ¼ hole in the top layer, enlarged it to ½”.
Step 2: I took an Allen wrench and cut it down to fit in the ½” top hole and sharpened the tip. I then put it into a drill chuck. I lowered it into the ½” hole and ground out the second layer ½” beyond the diameter of the ½” hole
Step 3: Vacuumed out all the wood chips.
Step 4: Put tape over the bottom ¼’ hole of the bottom layer.
Step 5: Pour West Systems Epoxy through the top hole, filling it to the top and wait until it hardens.
Step 6: Drill a ¼” hole from the bottom hole to the top, now you have eliminated all future core damage and additional distortion to the top and bottom. If it leaks later, no water will get in the core.
TIP: If you need to grind out more then a ½” after grinding out and vacumming, use a second Allen wrench with a longer tip.
Installed two yellow Jacklines from bow to stern (one each for port and starboard sides). Jacklines are used to attach tethers to. Removed and put in storage. Put two eye bolts in at the cockpit to add Jacklines also.
Need to do:
Tighten the Starboard nuts on the eye bolt.
Installed (6) person Viking RecuYou Pro Lifeboat in a fiberglass container with optional stainless steel cradle and Hydro Release (automatic release and inflation release system). The ultimate liferaft is automatically self righting.
Need to do:
Review Emergency Equipment Pack that comes with the Lifeboat and add add to the ditch bag any additional equipment needed.
Installed cockpit heater running off the engine. There are (2) output vents: One is stationary and the right side vent can be pulled out to move and or change the direction of air flow. Added a 24v circulation pump and a 12v to 24v converter.
Removed all of the old salon windows. They leaked really bad. I wanted to repair them, put in new plastic window and reinstall them. After rebuilding several windows, I reached the conclusion they were just to flimsy and to corroded . In addition, the manufacture cut out the window openings in the fiberglass and did a terrible job. The openings were uneven causing a bad fit. This was a very unsafe condition. The windows needed to be replaced.
The first job was to make the openings perfectly square and even. I then made templates for each window and took them to have the windows made. The new frames are at least three times the strength as the originals. Got rid of the plastic windows and replaced them with plate glass. Made aluminum plate covers (storm covers) for each window. Because each window is not exactly alike, each cover is not alike. Covers are marked identifying the window it belongs to. Window frames and covers have been powder coated with white paint.
The size and weight presented a challenge for storage that would not damage them and put them in the center of the boat and as far down to the bilge as I could get them. To solve this problem I built a carpeted (2) door cabinet off the shower wall in the AFT cabin.
The window cutouts have two layers of fiberglass and at least a 3/8” gap between them (no core). If a window leaked the water would run and come out five feet or more away, making it impossible to find the leak’s origin. Prior to installing the windows I filled the gap with 3M 5200 adhesive sealant. Then I installed the window. Perfect fit.
Need to do:
Prior to departure, I recommend a practice exercise with installing the covers.
Replaced the (2) old teak handrails on the top of the salon with stainless steel handrails. The teak handrails required too much ongoing maintenance.
The windshield needed to be replaced as well as the partial dodger. I searched for over a year for a vendor to make the new dodger. I noticed on many boats , very poor quality dodgers and noted who built them. They went on my list of “no way will they build mine”. I realized you get what you pay for. I finally narrowed my list to two vendors. One was located in Washington and the other one in Portland. They were both very expensive but their construction and quality was way out in front of their conpetition. I chose the local (Portland) vendor, Hayden Island Canvas.
I had them make and install a full Dodger (camper style enclosure). In addition, replacing all existing SS frames with 1 ¼” SS pipes instead of the traditional 1” frame and added covers for each section, (4) additional sections with screens. The new windheild was made with 80Mil Plastic. I added (3) handrails, (2) to the top outside and (1) to the inside frame over the entrance hatch.
Need to do:
Read the care and instruction info found in the green canvas bag from Haden Island Canvas. Last waterproofing was sprayed on summer of 2019.
Made and installed (2) additional SS handrails, mounted to the outer curved cockpit walls. Bent the rails to match the shape of the cockpit and bent the mounting hardware to match the curvature of the top of the cockpit outer wall.
Installed (2) handrails to the shelves on both sides of the cockpit hatch.
Modified the SS pedestal guard located at the helm to accommodate the installation of the fiberglass mods. Mounted all of the electronics, the horn and a fully functional VHF hand held remote radio. Polished the steering wheel and installed leather handgrip to the entire wheel.
I sent the compass to a firm in Seattle to refinish and have it calibrated. Hayden Island Canvas built covers for the helm and the steering wheel. Installed pedestal compass cover and replated the control handles.
Made two cockpit control panels with removable top panels and then mounted engine and generator gauges and circuit breakers. Then I installed the panels on the port side near the helm.
Need to do:
Ran the wires to the beaker. Need to install and label them. The labels are in the electrical container.
Installed (2) SS cleats to the AFT of the (2) cockpit benches. Installed the (2) winches with new covers to the benches.
Installed a Harken Lazy Jack System on the boom for the mainsail.
Installed traditional Boom Vangs to control Leech tension.
Rebuilt the Whisker Pole and hung it from the bow side of the mast.
Installed (2) Midrail Cleats.
Replaced the (2) 7 Series Deck Plates with Universal Adapter.
Replaced the (2) snatch blocks. The (2) old blocks are functional and should be kept as spares.
Attached (2) eyebolts to AFT for pulling a dinghy.
Put Turnbuckle Boots on all rigging.
Installed all of the new two hole Stanchions, (4) Gate Braces and Backing Plates.
Installed (2) complete lifelines with all the Lifeline Fittings.
Need to do:
Make final tension adjustments to the lifelines. The split ring is attached to the turnbuckles. After final adjustment, need to fasten to turnbuckle and treaded shaft to prevent them from loosening up.
Installed (2) West Marine SS Super Adjustable Heavy Duty Fishing Rod Holders to the AFT railing.
Removed AFT railing and had it modified to add a second tier and a motor mount. Polished the railing and installed it.
Installed the hardware to hang the boat ladder (new SS six steps) from the aft, starboard and port sides.
Installed the Jib Furling System.
Installed in the AFT deck a thru-deck whale Titan Bilge Pump.
Installed Epson Radar mast. Mounted and wired Raymarine 48 mile Radar, Broadcast speaker, TV antenna, GPS, and a cockpit spot light. Added to the mast a Epson Outboard Hoist System. Will hoist up to 150lb motor.
Removed the old Dinghy Davits. Repaired them and reinstalled.
Installed a Magma Grill on the aft railing. Had Hayden Island Canvas make the cover. Can be converted to run off the boat propane system.
Rebuilt the propane locker to include putting in a new drain system. 100% of the propane system replaced to include the tank. Tank is full.
From the Owner 2
Need to do:
The propane hose is laying below the propane locker. Feed it through the hole. Put the black vapor tight straight through the fitting on the hose and tighten to the propane locker wall. Attach single or two-stage (if you want the grill to operate off of your boat propane tank) bulkhead regulator and solenoid. Connect the hoses.
The long propane hose is run to the galley stove but is not fastened to the stove. The stove is moveable. Pull it out and look at all the new plumping and holding tanks to get familiar with it. Now, fasten the propane hose to the stove. Test the system to ensure no leaks. Push the stove back tight into the slot and install the final two screws for the stove install. Add the screws (one on each side) to the (2) holes at the top frame of the stove. You will have boards to screw into.
Installed all of the hardware, blocks and rope to control the boom movement from the cockpit. Removed all of it and stored it in one of the dock boxes.
Replaced all four deck hatches and added screens for each.
Installed (6) SS portlights with screens. The portlights meet all international spec. For a heeling sail boat, the remaining two portlights were rebuilt and reinstalled. TThey are located in the galley and dining area.
Installed AFT anchor roller.
Installed (4) new (July 2019) West Marine Prespliced Double Braid Nylon Docklines 35’ x ¾”. Also installed with the lines (4) West Marine Dock Line Rubber Snubbers.
Rebuilt the entire cockpit hatch. Added Inside removable panels to the louvered doors (used when heating or using air-conditioner). Custom Metal Fab made a brass entrance foot step, I installed. Built and installed a one piece teak trim piece.
Refinished entrance ladder.
Modified the bow cabin and added (2) overhead storage cabins with teak doors and frames. In the bow cabin is stored (4) sails. (1) main sail in good condition and (3) Jibs. (1) older Jib I believe is a 180 and in good condition and (2) brand new Jibs. One is a heavy 10 ounce storm Jib (8oz) and the other is a 120 Furling Jib made by North Sals. Recommeded using the North Sails Jib as your working Jib.
Note: About 85% of the wood on the inside of the boat, I added. Old growth Teak is extremely hard to buy but Old Growth Iroko can be purchases. Iroko is an exact duplicate to Teak and is a very popular substitute. I bought the entire shipment of Iroko from a specialty lumper store.
Converted the hallway closet for the bow cabin to a pantry and galley storage closet.
The bow bath room was completely remodeled. Adding new sink, faucet and electric toilet. Put in a raised floor under the toilet to hide the wiring and plumbing. The sink runs into a small grey water tank with automatic pump. The old system was gravity fed to an open Seacock which took forever to empty the sink. Hung new hooks and a light fixture. The old system had a plastic through the dick overhead fixture, allowing sunlight to enter the bathroom UV rays destroyed it. Replaced it with SS fixture and glass prisum. Installed a Teak ring around the prisum.
Before I started rebuilding the interior I noticed the painted bilge had failed. The paint was not adhering to the inside hull. I power washed the entire bilge and removed all the old paint. I repainted the entire bilge with a special paint that will last in the bilge, especially below the water line. I used Interux’s Bilgekote Enamel. I recommend only using this product in the bilge.
Need to do:
The new privacy curtain for the bow cabin needs to be installed. It’s laying on the bed in the bow cabin and it needs to be installed. All the hardware is also there. On the ceiling between the galley and dining area is a board installed in the hallway. Mount the curtain to the outside of this board (aft side).
I rebuilt the dining area to include a new table top and new floor hatch.
The galley represented a massive demolition and remodeling job. I first pulled out the (4) drawer cabinet from under the counter. I took it home and re-glued and varnished it. Pulled the old rusted stove in pieces and removed the sink. Removed (2) generations of refrigeration plates. I purchased a stand up 9 cu ft refrigerator to install into a section of a fiberglass counter that I had to cut away. When I cut, I made a slot in the side to store a cutting board. The first refrigeration was built into and enclosed into the fiberglass. This made it inaccessible or repairable. I think the whole system weighed at least 150lbs. The second system was installed under the sink. After reading a lot of stories of cruisers having trouble with keeping their refrigerators cold in warm climates. My design would solve this problem.
I built a wooden box for the refrigerator. I built a chimney on the back of the box. The chimney would allow the fan to blow air from the bottom across the coils and escape up the chimney. Next I built a second box 3” bigger on all sides and top and bottom. I filled the 3” gap with insulation foam solving the problem of not enough insulation. I installed the boxes and refrigerator.
Have in storage an upgrade option if desired. You can install the optional stainless steel door panels. Half of the counter space was empty underneath. I cut a large opening in the top counter and built a wooden box, inserted it into the hole and built a hinged door.
I installed a new countertop to match the new table top in the dining area. Put in a new sink and faucet and ran the drain to the automatic whale-Goupler shower drain kit under the stove.
Both sinks in the galley and the bow bathroom are emptied through this sight and exited from the seacock under the galley sink.
Installed the Force 10, 3 Burner SS stove. This stove was rated in PractIcal Sailor, testing as the best stove.
Installed a microwave over the stove. Ran a separate and single use 110 volt line to the microwave.
I did not want the galley knifes getting dull in a drawer. Found a dead space in a cabinet. Cut into it and mounted the wood knife block and knives. Built a hinged cover and latch for it.
Built and installed a floor hatch.
With the (4) drawer cabinet out, I noticed enough space under it to install a black water holding tank. I removed the fake holding tank a previous owner installed (?). I installed the black water holding tank for the bow toilet, and a second maserator.
I installed a cabinet with a fire extinguisure into the side of the refrigerator cabinet near the steps.
In the aft bathroom I made a platform with an access panel in the front to put under the toilet. Again, I wanted to hide all of the wiring and plumbing. Installed it and the electric toilet. Each toiet comes with two motors. A raw water pump to bring in water for flushing and a macerator pump to empty the toilet and break down solid waste.
Most older boats do not have holding tanks and are not required to retro fit their boat to include them. The exception is when traveling to some foreign ports. They require holding tanks. Our cruising plan was to circumnavigate the world. I read that in some ports the officials would make you dismantle a toilet that did not have a holding tank. We wanted to be in compliance with everyone. An additional requirement Is a Locking “Y” valve diverter. This valve directs waste to the holding tank or allows waste to be dumped directly in the water bi-passing the holding tank. This boat has “Y” valves installed that can be locked in the holding tank position only.
In the aft bathroom, under the counter (with sink) we had space for a holding tank. I cut the front out of the fiberglass counter to gain access to the storage space under the counter. Installed a (18) gallon holding tank and like the bow holding tank, I had to install a second macerator pump to empty the holding tank. Both toilets are now in compliance with laws of the world.
Installed (2) lights over the sink and faucet. I took the fiberglass panel that I cut out of the counter front to gain access and cut it to make a flat surface for the holding tank to sit on. Covered the counter opening and the exterior face of the counter with Iroko. Mounted all the controls on the face.
The bathroom sink drains into the automatic shower sump pump.
In the stand up/stand alone shower, I put all new plumping to include shower head faucet, etc. Painted the lower half of the shower to include the floor. Put in a complete new drain system. Installed a shower sump pump under the shower floor and attached the sink drain pipe to it.
The shower door was restored and sanded. I did not think varnish would survive in the shower so I treated it with teak oil which will need to be reapplied as needed. Teak oil is in storage and also teak cleaner.
Need to do:
Under the aft cabin bed, on the port side storage area is the Emergency Tiller. I took the boat out to test the electronics that was just installed and the steering failed. I used the Emergency Tiller and it really works good.
I refinished and made some minor repairs to the Emergency Tiller. I took the metal pipe and one of the spare anchors to a plating firm. I had the plating removed and replated with Hot Galvanizing.
When the steering failed, the plastic deck plate over the deck access hole fell apart. I replaced it with a SS Deck Plate and I made a teak ring (for appearance only) over the inside hole installed in the ceiling.
I have never used an Emergency Tiller, nor did I know how to use it. For me, this was a real emergency.
Need to Do:
Highly recommend doing a dry run or Emergency Tiller. If in this situation, I recommend doing the following:
Installed all new steering cables and the chain at the Helm. The old cable had several broken wires that I could not see. I found them by wiping the cable with a rag. The rag snagged on the broken wires. Doing this with hand will cut you.
Installed a new powerful Bilge Pump and filter into the rudder post locker.
Installed (2) lights and (2) fans over the aft bed.
In the aft cabin floor, made and installed a floor hatch. Under this hatch runs cables and exhaust pipes. One of the steering cables runs over one the exhaust pipes and make contact. Made and installed a SS plate to cover the pipe and allowed the one cable to slide over the plate.
Need to do:
Nothing is holding he SS plate in place. Need to put tie wraps through the holes and fasten the plate to something to hold the plate in place. Need to grease that part of the cable that makes contact with the SS plate.
Made removable pet steps (carpeted) allowing a small/med size pet access to the bed. Steps are designed to be installed on the aft bed, port side face of the bed. Optional, did not install. Steps and associated hardware to install are in a black plastic bag in storage.
Built and installed a carpeted (to protect contents) two door cabinete from floor to ceiling and attached to the outer wall of the shower. Cabinet is installed near the center line of the boat and lowest point of the boat. Cabinet stores the Storm Covers for windows in the salon.
Rebuilt the aft closet and carpeted all of it. Put in a floor that covers a lot of wires and cables. Under the floor is a lot of storage space if needed. Built a removable two piece wall separating the closet space from the electrical panel.
In the salon there are two saddle bag water tanks and two saddle bag fuel tanks. The water tanks were emptied while the rebuild was taking place. Each tank is 125 gal. For a total of 250 gal of fresh water. If in the future a water maker is added, a good place maybe to close down one tank and use that space to install the water maker, leaving a single 125 gal water tank.
At this juncture 100% of the plumbing has been replaced to include all hardware, fixtures, appliances and motors. The water system now needs to be tested for function and leaks.
Need to do:
Before the generator is installed, fill the water tanks and run all fixtures and pumps checking for leaks. Turn on the hot water tank and test it. Fill the water tanks a second time just to wash the tanks and hoses out. If everything works ok, now generator can be installed.
Built storage cabinets for the large library on the port side of the salon. Installed a 40” smart TV mounting it to the bulkhead separating the salon from the galley. Made and installed to the bulkhead an assembly that raises and lowers the TV. Attached to this assembly is a standard TV mount that moves in all directions. Made a carpeted wood cover with a wooden steering wheel (for decoration) mounted on the front of the cover.
Installed a new brown leather recliner near the salon controls panel and electrical control panels.
Made a removable control panel and mounted all radio’s, second chart plotter and additional equipment to the panel. Measured the ICOM SSB and it’s speaker. Cut a slot in the panel for them. Covered the slot and labeled them for future install.
The 12v electrical needs increased four fold. The old system had (2) batteries. One for the engine and one house battery. I had to completely change the electrical systems. I ended up replacing 95% of the 12v wiring and about 75% of the 110v wiring. All wiring was done with Ancor Marine Grade Wiring.
Went into the engine compartment and cut the walls out to utilize the space between the engine walls and the fuel and water tanks to put the new batteries. At the bottom of this space, I put in a floor covering all the wires and plumbing running through that area. On that floor I mounted (5) batteries on each side of the engine compartment with battery boxes for each battery. I wired all batteries to make (3) zones. (1) for the generator, (1) for the engine and (8) batteries for the house. This gave us 400 AMPS (50%) to use for the house before having to recharge.
Installed Xantrex Freedom 30 Inverter Charger with 80 AMP charger and 3000 WATTS of 110v power.
Installed Galvanic Isolator.
Installed Xantrex Link 1000 Battery monitor.
Made (6) plywood cover panels for the engine walls and fiberglassed each. Walls are needed to mount fuses and battery cables too. Also for mounting the fuel filters and raw water filters.
I installed all new electrical breaker panels. I used Blue Sea Systems products for all breaker panels and switches during the installation of electrical items. I would install the item, number he wire and run it to the circuit breaker to be installed later. This was before I bought the new breaker panels. Half of the lines never got tested.
Installed the exhaust hoses for the engine and generator. Put in brass lever operated ball valve connectors and brass through hull connectors. Left the hoses long enough to finish the installs. Installed the raw water filter with hose for the engine.
Installed the engine control cables from the helm to the engine for the throttle and shifter (not assembled to the engine).
Installed (50) AMP output cable to the generator.
Need to do:
Install both the engine and generator. Most of the engine install parts are in storage. Will need parts for exhaust and venting the exhaust line.
Removed the old steel fuel tanks. One tank was leaking. Installed (2) new aluminum (has twice the life span of steel) fuel tanks. Each tank has two baffles inside to stop fuel movement when underway. I put in new SS Deck Fills, connector hoses and vents to the tanks.
Need to do:
To lower the generator into the engine compartment, I custom made two fixtures.
The first fixture is wooden and is assembled inside the engine compartment. It provides an elevated platform to push the generator onto. The second fixture is a metal frame with hoist to pickup and lower it. Once the metal fixture picks up the generator, first fixture is removed and the second fixture lowers the generator in place. The metal fixture with the hoist can also be used to lift one end of the engine at a time to put spacers under the feet.
Installed a ESPAR Hydronic 10 24v heater. Installed the heating unit. Installed (3) of the (4) zones. Ran all the pluming and wired each zone with on/off switch. The on switch for each zone will not turn the zone on until it’s told to do so by the in-line thermoscoupler. This prevents the fans from blowing cold air. One zone heats the bow cabin, one zone heats the galley/dining area and one zone heats the aft cabin. The last (4th) zone is wired and plumbed. Needs to be installed after the settee is installed. It heats the salon.
Installed the heater expansion tank partially filled the lines with antifreeze and installed the exhaust pipe through the hull on the port side. The exhaust pipe has a plug in it that needs to be removed before operating. A spare plug is in storage.
Installed the voltage converter from 12v to 24v.
Need to do:
Installed headliner with foam backing throughout the boat except a small area on the starboard side of the salon. I have (3) cans of 3M adhesive spray in storage to finish the job and then install some trim pieces (in storage).
Need to do:
Note: Be ever so careful screwing into the fiberglass floor. While screwing, if you meet a lot of resistance – stop. Take the screw out. Your pilot hole you drilled is not big enough. Fiberglass is very difficult to screw into. Pilot holes need to be almost as big as the screws. There is a bag of screws laying in the area over on the starboard side.
Need to do:
Need to do:
Installed the Teak and Holly sole through out the entire boat. In the sole, I made a total of eight new hatches and made the salon floor on the port side removeable.
Control panels at the helm have a removable panel. Just list the top edge and the face will come off. Need to remove the clear plastic protective sheet from the Plexiglas and dispose of it.
- Settee: All the components have been refinished. (4) white parts are in the salon to be installed. (2) of these are the end pieces. The other (2) are the main supports. The settee when assembled has a couch and a storage compartment at the aft end. The white parts need to be modified. The bottom front varnish part also needs to be modified. I added a part of the sole (3/4” thick) with the hatch hinges and this causes interference. The white parts on the bottom front have not been modified to accommodate the additional ¾” sole. The front bottom piece I believe is also ¾” too high. The varnished pieces are in storage. The front bottom piece has been replaced. I saved the old panel to be used to assist in identifying how to assemble – matching nail holes, etc.
- In the salon there is a finished piece of trim about two feet long. The headliner mounted to the bulkhead has a seam in it. The trim piece will cover the seam.
- In the aft cabin over the bed the headliner is coming down. A hanging headliner is too heavy. I made (4) pieces of trim to solve this problem. Need to put (2) pieces on each side of the center line. Cut the headliner in a straight line under each trim piece, spray behind the headliner and mount the trim pieces to the ceiling over the cuts. The (4) trim pieces are on the bed.
- They are in a plastic bag of Iroko plugs to fill the screw holes. If more are needed, I have a large plastic container of scrape Iroko in storage. They are used to make plugs. Note: If you need to make plugs do not buy the type of plug making tool that is sold at Home Depot. That type of tool is sold everywhere. Its cheap and its junk. Iroko is a hard wood and will destroy the tool very fast. Go on the Internet and find the 3/8” plug maker that has a centering point and is spring loaded. This tool will outlast the other one 100 to 1.
Working on this boat has been my life for (10) years. It has truly been a labor of love or me. A reason to keep going. During the rebuild I went through (9) major surgeries, a heart attack and a mild stroke. My life is now in a wheel chair. It is very difficult for me to call it quits and walk away with the boat not completed and our dream of circumnavigating the world coming to an end. I hope the new owner completes it and is as proud to sail it as I would be.
List of parts that will sell with the Columbia 45 and are in storage. Estimate 98% of everything on list is new and have been stored in the home garage and have never been on the boat. Estimated total value is about $20,000.00+
Description: Day/night plus stainless steel vent 4” in size, 24 hour solar powered ventilation with Nicro 4” and vent fan soft vinyl protective ring.
Description: Day/night plus stainless steel vent 4” in size, 24 hour solar powered ventilation with Nicro 4” and soft vinyl protective ring.
Item: Container 1
Desc: Complete library of “How to” books, cruising books. A great collection of information. Also medical books. Contains Chapman Piloting and Seamanship. This book is coast guard requirement for a 45ft boat. It must be on board at all times.
Item: Container 2
Desc: Charts, medical books, cruising books and how to books.
Item: Container 3
Desc: Contains binders with a copy of all manuals for the boat information on 98% of everything installed on the boat. I made a copy for the boat and another copy for home. I then organized everything in binders with plastic sleeves.
Item: Blue Performance
Desc: Large cockpit bag. Need to install.
Item: Blue Performance
Desc: Sea map bag
Item: Whale Gusher 25 Pump
Desc: Manual spare
Item: Green bag from Hayden Island Canvas with cleaning supplies and instructions for the care of the Dodger.
Item: SS utility pump with hoses
Item: 25ft to 30ft chain - spare
Item: Green bag
Desc: Green Bay Para Anchor
Item: Black bag
Desc: Para Anchor Rode: 200 ft – 250 ft (?) x ¾ inch rope retrieval line with red buoy (use to empty the parachute, need to buy ¾ inch line to fasten to bow and stern cleats (on the outside), roller (large block).
Item: Black bag
Desc: 250 ft rope and 30 ft chain for aft anchor.
Marine signal kit with assortment of smoke, aerial and hand held signal flares, most people keep expired items as backups because most of them will still work.
Carpeted pet steps and all hardware to install. Can be installed front/port side of AFT bed.
(2) Caframo Bora: (3) speed marine fans.
Anchor (used) Danford style, Hooker M1050.
Anchor (used) CQR 45#,
Refrigerator/Freezer: Stainless steel door panel kit.
Spartite: Mast wedge replacement system – secures & seals the mast at the partners (must be installed).
Folding prop – Martec low drag propeller 18 3/4 D, 13P, 2 blades.
Item: Heater Outlet
Desc: 2011 700H 2 outlet kit. (3) zones installed. This is the last zone to install. Install after settee in saloon is installed.
Item: (2) SS screens
Desc: Must be installed in portlights
Item: Container 4
Desc: (1) maintenance log book, (3) battery tie downs, (11) Velcro power cords tie-downs, (1) 20ft elastic cable, (1)teak door/drawer front and frame, (2) sou’wester yellow rain hats, (3) gear hammock, (1) mess bag, plastic container with wind sock, (1) large US flag, (1) 16” x 24” US flag, (2) decorative string of code flags, (2) 50ft string pennant, (1) weems and plath weather station (barometer, quartz clock, comfortmeter), (1) traditional navigation set in an elegant wooden box, (1) SS dock hook, (1) SS buoy hook, (8) chafe guards 18inches long.
Item: Container 5
Desc: Kenwood headphone, (1) bag of extra parts for navigation equipment, (1) head lamp, (1) C-maps nt – reader allows you to hook your C-maps to your PC at home to chart your trip course, (2) rapid fire automatic life vest strobe, (1) bag of spare fuses and bulbs (2) thin-lite 12 volt flouresent lights, (10) spare flouresent light bulbs, (2) spare round flouresent light bulbs, (2) more bags of spare light bulbs.
Item: Container 6
Desc: (2) handles for the AFT deck installed and the extra portable whale 25 gusher pump (see #8), (2) stainless steel cleaning pads, (6) bronze wool cleaning pads, (1) pair of Gill sailing gloves (1) box of 48 wood clothes pins, (1) container of 12 carabiner style bungee cords, (2) 1 ½” straps, (1) large portable brass compass, (3) nylon lifeline netting (helps keep kids, crew, pets & sails safely onboard) with “boat works magazine article on how-to install it. Each container has 40’ x 2’ of netting, (2) rolls of 1/8” nylon braided twines (2) lb roll (about 800 ft, (1) roll of 1/8” nylon braided hard lay gangens (540ft), (4) composition books, (3) portlight SS screens.
Standard 201 speaker – extension speaker to be mounted in the cockpit, extension for VHF radio – white speaker – water resistant.
Standard horizon 220 SW PS horn – 5” round, white, SS hardware & mount.
Large roll of two sided tape.
Large cleaning brush – long handle.
Lifesling – 3:1 block & tackle – goes with throw lifesling mounted on AFT rail. Used for retrieval.
Adventure medical kits – Marine Medical kit 3000. Largest & most complete kit we could find. Wholesale cost was $800.00. Supplies to last a month or more at sea.
West Marine portable heater. Very durable, designed to circulate heated air in closed up boat in the winter. Minimizes humidity and mold.
2 spare 24V circulation pumps for both heaters (cabin & cockpit). Very expensive. Some web sites selling as high as $400.00 ea.
Spare samples America – switch mode DC-DC step-up converter “step 10“. Input:12 VDC output: 24VDC – 10 AMPS.
Plastic bag of 7 SS backup plates – old but polished & usable.
Med orange waterproof plastic storage container, vast assortment of emergency tapered plugs for hull, epoxy aluminum putty stick, (3) rolls of rescue tape, large assortment of material to make gaskets.
Empty med orange waterproof plastic storage container.
Med orange waterproof plastic storage container with spare parts: rebuild kits for motors, spare hardware for Lewmar hatchs/screens, replacement chain for steering, bag fill (about 10) of tools to open lids/plates on deck for water, fuel, etc., replacement SS screens for water intake filters.
2) folding padded seats – great for the deck or benches in cockpit.
Table top 22"x33”. Last owner used it for a portable chart plotting table. I reconditioned it and put 15 coats of varnish on both sides.
Teak cockpit table: Slide over the smaller permanently installed table at the helm.
Spare teak door & frame.
Spare wire: Can replace AFT or BOW stay. Recommend storing it when cruising in the AFT cabin bilge. Wrap it around the rudder post under the bed.
Large orange water proof plastic storage container contains (16) diesel replacement filters for the Racor 500 FG30 diesel filter (12 of these filters are (2) micron and (4) are 10 micron.
Med orange waterproof plastic storage container with (2) old working snatch blocks (purchased new ones), additional blocks, very large assortment of rigging hardware, everything you will ever need for rigging.
Med orange waterproof plastic storage container packed with multiples of everything you will ever need for rigging for cruising around the world.
Fuel filter funnel
Sony self powered emergency FM/AM radio & light (crank to charge). Put into the emergency ditch bag.
Self powered emergency radio & light (crank to charge). Put into the emergency ditch bag.
Large orange waterproof plastic storage container. All the supplies and mixing instruction to repair the awl grip paint job on the boat.
(2) Lewmar – One touch winch handles.
(2) Offshore West Marine lifepreservers – automatic and manual inflate.
(5) Wisels to attach to Life vests.
(2) 6’ elastic double tethers. Very well made.
Para-Tech Delta Progue with rope and chain.
ACR yellow rapid ditch bag – Bouyant abandon ship survival gear bag.
Katadyn survivor – 35 hand operated watermaker – A simple hand operated desalinator, able to produce over 30 gallons of portable water per day from seawater.
Brinkmann spotlight – Qbeam glare -free blue max marine, (3) million maxpower with handy carrying case.
Loose & Co. Professional Tension Guage for rigging – very accurate for cable sizes ¼”, 9/32”, 5/16”, 3/8”.
Sea Fit – Blue bag of (4) life jackets
Harken Bosun’s chair – two person operation. One to ride the chair and one to work the winch.
Topclimber – One person Bosun’s chair. When we purchases this my wife and I immediately tried it (my wife cannot winch me up the mast with the Harken Bosun’s chair) this topclimber really does work as advertised. Assured that we had the means of climbing the mast, we boxed this up and put it in storage.
Small orange waterproof plastic storage container.
Med orange waterproof plastic storage container – full to the top with material & tools to repair sails to include (2) sail sewing repair kits.
(6) rolls of black Velcro 25 yards long x 1”.
(2) custom canvas hatch covers for galley and dining area.
Fortress stowaway anchor system – Aluminum anchor. The anchor is disassembled and stored in a red canvas bag. Rated in the 45’lb class.
About 40’ of anchor marine grade RG 8u signal cable for single sideband radio. (SSB) plus (7) stand offs to fasten to back stay.
Bag of new upholstery fabric & reminents.
Large blue container. All parts to assist in engine and generator installation. (1) bag of brass fittings, (3) bags (large assortment) of large SS screws to mount engines , (1) Perkins fuel filter which we may or may not use. If we use it, we need the type of fuel filter and order a few spares. (1) Balmar multi-stage marine regulator, including wiring harness, raw water filter assembly for generator, Nicro 3” bulkhead hose adaptor, (1) shield marine hose (for air) 3” x 50’, large assortment of large SS hose clamps for engine exhaust, (2) Racor molel 500 FG diesel fuel filter/water separator with Racor gage and hose assemble and valves assembled, (1) motorized quick il drain oil removal system for perkins engine, (1) bag of SS Perkins engine shims, (1) additional Mase on/off electrical panel to be installed in salon, (1) reversible diesel fuel pump (wire to cockpit) – use to transfer fuel between fuel tanks to maintain boat balance. Motor is Coast Guard approved to transfer fuel.
Racor model 500 FG diesel fuel filter/water separator and Racor gage (not installed) – spare.
Assortment of spare shields marine hose. Recommend evaluate and carry on board. Some in the bilge.
Man-over board pole.
Long handle SS GAFF 0 long handle because of the boats high freeboard.
Mooring pick-up & pole.
Spare holding tank vent filter.
Spare: Shurflo – High pressure (65 PSI) backup water pump (also have a rebuild kit in one of the orange containers).
Plastic Gaff hook and expandable pole.
Shields marine hose: (1) box (50’) x 5/16 “ fuel hose, (1) box 50’ x 3/8 “ fuel hose.
Item: Container 7
Desc: Painting/varnish supplies and marine adhesive sealant.
Item: Container 8
Decs: (1) hand air pump, (1) copper foil to put in bilge for single sideband (SSB) radio (this is in addition to grounding plate mounted to bottom hull), (1) Rieker clinometer (2) SS ventilator, (1) carbon monoxide alarm, (2) smoke & fire alarm with lithium batteries, (2) crome brass fodling steps, (1) SS bracket to add length to head stay just in case its needed, (3) Lewmar winch handle pockets.
Item: Container 9: Electrical supplies.
Item: Container 10: Electrical supplies.
Item: Container 11: Electrical supplies.
Container 12: Plumbing supplies.
Plastic bag with instructions and parts for installing Furler. There are (2) identical parts. One is needed to install near the top of the mast (see container #14 for tool kit to drill & tap). One of the parts is in a plastic bag with the SS mounting screws.
Spare: complete section of Furling track.
Roll of 20’ to 30’ of extra headliner material.
Roll of foam with foil backing. Attach to new engine room panels for sound barrier.
Roll of extra closet carpet.
Bag with shoe box about 98% of all purchase receipts for construction of
Plastic bag with (2) shaft packing wrenches and packing extractor tool.
Item: Small container 13:
Desc: Engine installation parts and PTO (power take off) kit with install instructions.
Roll of all blue prints for new Dodger.
Item: Container 13:
Desc: SIpare parts plus Brinkmann Q Beam Blue Max 200,000 CP search light.
Black Plastic Bag of (4) lifevests.
(6) new fiberglassed wood panels with fuses and electrical connecters attached to engine room wall panels, plastic covers for the fuses and electrical connectors are in container number 9, 10 or 11.
Large assortment marine grade plywood, teak & holly flooring and extra pieces of Iroko wood.
Frame and trim pieces for the settee in salon. Cannot install settee until after the engine and generator is installed. The four settee cushions are stored on the bed in the forward cabin.
Custom built metal fixture with hoist for raising and lowering the generator into the engine room. The fixture is very capable of raising the engine also.
The custom built dodger has (4) screened panels installed. The window panels and the protective sleeves to store them are in storage.
Item: Container 14 & 15:
Desc: All of the original binders with manuals and other information plus research information.
Item: Small container 16:
Desc: Fuel pump and fuel line for the Epson heater.
50’ of yellow nylon jacklines in mess storage bags. One for each side of the deck.